During a Recession, the Drinks Keep Flowing

How Brooklyn Bar Owners are Surviving the Economic Downturn

Has the booze business suffered during the recession? It’s hard to tell, but the tough economic times didn’t stop every seat from being occupied at neighborhood favorite Spuyten Duyvil on a chilly Sunday night. The bar boasts what many consider one of the finest beer menus in New York, and keeps the place packed almost every day of the week, which of course means you probably don’t serve the 2 dollar PBR’s that have become the staple of many North Brooklyn bars even though for the price of a normal beer at the small bar, you could have 2 cans of Pabst, and leave a good tip.
“It’s worth it.” Eric Pollack says as he sips one of the many Belgian beers on tap. But at a time when everyone’s strapped for cash, how much can you measure the value of a single beer? “I was a production assistant for a few years, and now I’m back to waiting tables.” Pollack takes a slow sip, then continues, “so this beer is sort of like my refuge I guess.” While no stool is left empty at on one side of Metropolitan Ave., just across the street Brooklyn-famous Black Betty, the bar/restaurant that celebrated its ten year anniversary then promptly closed its doors. At the site of it, one has to wonder if the beer and booze business is thriving, or failing.
Maria Pennington, a neighbor to the bar speculates that the closing of the Black Betty had more to do with skyrocketing rent of the neighborhood than bad business. “That place was packed every night.” She points out that although she didn’t spend much time there as a patron, she had dinner there a few times. “All the bars around here are packed constantly. You go a few blocks up [to Bedford Ave] and it’s a madhouse. Even after the money began to dry up.”
While Pennington weighs in as a casual observer, Larry Hyland knows first hand how business works, even in the toughest of times . Hyland is involved with Brooklyn Bar Partners, whose establishments include Bar Matchless (557 Manhattan Ave.), Public Assembly (at the former Galapagos space at 70 N. 6th Street) in Williamsburg/Greenpoint, as well as Bar 4, Apartment 138, and Camp in the southern part of the borough. “I think we are weathering the recession pretty well,” Hyland says of his establishments, but makes note of the tricks some of the bars have tried to entice people into drinking. “Half priced bottles of wine, 2 for 1 nights, $3 drink nights, ladies night, lunch and brunch specials, 50 cent wings.” Of course ladies night, cheap drinks, and inexpensive or free food is nothing new to the bar world—or to Brooklyn drinking culture. Places like Alligator Lounge (Metropolitan Ave.), and The Charleston off the Bedford L stop, have been offering free pizza with any drink for quite some time, and to much success. “I’ve been unemployed for like, six months”, Jeff Marcus says, feet resting on his skateboard, as he nurses as Budweiser, and eats his pizza at The Charleston. “I live hand to mouth, so when I go out, it’s either gotta be this place, or somewhere I find online with free booze.” A friend of his leans over and yells “My Open Bar!” referring to the popular website that gives a comprehensive listing of bars and galleries offering free drink specials. Marcus continues, “I look at that site almost nightly. But The Charleston has become my Cheers.” He clears off the last slice on his pizza tray, smiles, and says with a tone that is slightly condescending, “When the President saves us all with his magic bailout, then I can go back to my six-figure lifestyle.”

A new year is just around the corner, and while Marcus is waiting for the recession to dissolve, it would seem bar owners have used this time to capitalize on an opportunity to sell their product, and set their businesses up for the (hopefully) more prosperous times ahead. While there is one school of thought that attests that during depressions and recession people want to drink to drown their sorrows, it’s certainly true that right now, rents on commercial real properties are at record lows compared to the last few years. This gives owners the opportunity to open up new bars in places they would have been otherwise unable to afford a few years ago. Just this summer alone, Spuyten Duyvil got a new neighbor as the downtown Manhattan music venue the Knitting Factory moved in next door. Bruar Falls opened on Grand between Driggs and Roebling, and has so far become the go-to space for shows on an already thriving stretch with established bars like Clems and Trash. As for Hyland, the recession hasn’t dampened his spirit, as he continues to expand his small empire. “We currently have 3 very exciting new projects in the works for early spring that range in size, style and location,” Hyland said with a chuckle, “that should keep us pretty busy for a while, or until something else pops up.”