entertainment

Cornichon

A cornichon, French for gherkin, is a tiny cocktail pickle that traditionally accompanies pates and smoked meats. To name you restaurant after this miniscule cucumber, right away gives us a clue to the menu. The menu itself is constructed to go a long with the extensive wine and wine cocktail list.
Cornichon, the restaurant, is located at 251 Grand St. near Roebling. Rarely crowded it can be a good respite and a more grown-up version of surrounding bars like, Trash Bar. The menu is basically traditional French cocktail fare, but here French does not mean fussy. In fact, fussy would be a trick to pull off, as the kitchen is tiny and open to view.
For appetizers, try the tartines, a fancy word for an open-faced sandwich covered in a rich spread. Each one is $4. There is the classic combination of green apple and brie with a little arugula to give it bite; the smoked salmon with crème fraiche, lemon, and pesto; or simply go for the pate and cornichon.
A little bit hungrier? Try the quiche du jour, a filling appetizer and only $6. Or for something a little more, there are charcuterie and cheese plates each $14.
For a salad course try the chevre chaud, $9, which is mixed greens with goat cheese and toasted bread. Delicious, but then it’s hard to go wrong with warm goat cheese.
Now for the main dishes, which include sandwiches and three entrée options. The sandwiches, $11, are pressed and served on a baguette with salad greens. The salmon pressé is smoked salmon and crème fraiche, with capers and pistou, a sauce make from garlic, olive oil and basil. It’s delicious and this salmon, cream, basil combination may be a new favorite of mine.
There is also the poulet pressé, which is a little more nouveau with its chicken, avocado, and tomatoes in a curried mayonnaise sauce.
For mains, try the poitrine de poulet, or chicken breast with mashed potatoes and asparagus, with a wine jus sauce, a wine reduction made with the drippings of meat.
Beef bourguignon is a favorite of mine with is simplicity of ingredients, and as the seasons change from fall to winter a comforting and hearty stew made with beef, carrots, mushrooms, and tiny pearl onions simmered for hours in a wine sauce. These two entrees are $14 and $15 respectively.
Cornichon’s inviting and cozy atmosphere belies the fact that it is at once airy and open, leaving a lot of space for even large groups to enjoy themselves. In warm weather there is a pretty garden in the back. So, there is plenty of room to sit back and relax with a glass of Cotes du Rhone, or a champagne cocktail.

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